INPUT TO PCS1
SOLAR ON FLOW
NORMAL FLOW
SOLAR OFF FLOW
VOR ROTATES
CW TO OFF
CCW TO ON
REVERSE PLUG IF
VALVE IS STAGED
BACKWARDS
INTERNAL CAMS
ADJUST IF VALVE
ROTATION SLIPS
--LOOSEN WHITE
SLIP NUT AND ADJ
TOP OR BOT CAM
IF REQUIRED FOR
CORRECT AND FULL
TURN OF VALVE.
TOP VIEW OF ASSEMBLED
COMPOOL VOR24 &
BYPASS VALVE FOR PCS1
__________________________________________________________________
Note: The above illustration shows an earlier Y-valve, which is no longer in production.
The LX220 controller now ships with a T-valve so the ports are at 90 Degrees (vs. 45º).
Instead of a reversible plug on the left side, the valve operator (VOR) now has a three
position switch on its backside with ON1, OFF and ON2. The switch ensures proper
rotation direction. If the valve rotates backwards set the switch to other ON position.
Compared to the support system issue, installing the PCS1 is the proverbial “piece of
cake”. Or, at least it can be! There are several different possibilities for approaching the
installation of the PCS1. Access to the air on the interior side of the roof is the key
Solar derived heat is conducted into the attic space as previously discussed. Drawing
this heat off -- as it is conducted into the attic space -- is the objective.This can
include mounting the PCS1 inside the attic [recommended approach], outside of the attic at a gable
location, or physically mounting the PCS1 within the roof itself. Any number of other variations
are possible and will depend upon the home or structure where the PCS1 is being installed.
Whatever method is used, it is necessary to mount the PCS1 so that the air can be drawn
off of the interior of the roof and through the PCS1 heat exchange coil. Any mounting other than
horizontal and inside the attic may require a condensate drain provision. Also, any mounting other
than horizontal will render the internal float for leak detection inoperative. In the normal case, a
small amount of condensate can be expected and would simply collect and eventually evaporate in
the bottom pan of the PCS1.
Installations should be in the main attic area with a square footage of ceiling area greater
than the size of the pool surface area [length x width, etc.]. Any exterior installation of the PCS1
must ensure a good seal is present between the PCS1 coil and the attic area.
This discussion will focus on one typical installation method. This involves the 2 x 2’
closet access to the attic found in many homes. See“Common Questions” at the back of this
manual for an additional discussion of installation options.
A. Locate current closet access [may be a hallway opening]
B. Open up access and inspect attic area.
1. Does the area adjacent to opening provide a central location?
2. How far to the place where you want to locate the PCS1?
3. Is there blown in insulation one foot deep?
a. If so, place fiberglass batt insulation immediately around PCS1
4. How wide are the joists?
a. PCS1 fits in between standard 24” on center trusses
b. 16” on center trusses will require some reframing
5. If you expand this access opening, will the PCS1 fit into the attic?
NOTE: THE FLEXIBLE PVC PIPE MUST BE ROUTED TO THE PCS1.
ENSURE YOU MAKE ALLOWANCE FOR THIS PIPE RUN,
THE PVC UNIONS, AND ELECTRICAL WIRES TO THE PCS1.
C. Strategy: Reframe access hole and place PCS1 adjacent to it inside the
D. Inspect for any attic electrical wiring which may be in the way.
1. Make arrangements to deal with any wiring found.
E. Using a reciprocating saw, enlarge the access hole to each joist [24” OC]
1. Enlarge hole to each joist and make access hole 34-48” in length.
2. This provides a 22.5” width [2.5” clearance beyond PCS1’s 20” depth]
NOTE: Some homes have a larger attic access panel which is almost
large enough. It is possible that it can be enlarged slightly to
accommodate the PCS1. A rough opening of 21” x 31” will allow the
to go through - on its side- if sufficient height is inside the attic.
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