PCS1 MANUAL

SECTION 3 - INSTALLATION

Page S3-31

15. Board up large vent holes that have been created from the inside of the attic with scrap

plywood, etc. For example: If wind driven turbines have been installed in the roof, simply board

up the interior hole and leave the roof alone. The turbine may still rotate, but it will not draw out

air.

16. Disconnect the power to any installed power ventilator and board up the hole from the

inside of the attic. This leaves the roof appearance as is but renders the ventilator inoperative. It

also closes up what is an excess passive opening in the attic.

17. Ventilation should be reduced down to what the house was built with. Again, the rule

of thumb is 1 sq foot for each 350 sq ft of attic area.

18. The actual cubic air space inside of the attic is not important. It is the roof’s surface

area and being able to draw the air off of the roof’s interior through the PCS1 heat transfer coil that

is. Air itself does not hold much heat.

19. If a radiant heat barrier has been installed onto the roof’s interior, it must be removed

for effective operation of the PCS1.

20. If a radiant heat barrier has been installed on the ceiling area, it can be left as is since it

does not affect the operation of the PCS1. NOTE: radiant barriers work to keep the attic heat from

radiating into the home. The PCS1 solves this problem by taking the heat and placing it into the

swimming pool. The PCS1 removes the heat load from the ceiling of the house.

21. The PCS1 can function as an attic ventilation fan by unplugging the bypass valve and

turning the LX220 to ON[manual override] and opening all outside attic vents. This can be useful

in some instances.

22. Make sure the attic temperature sensor is out of the air stream and is mounted near the

peak of the roof.

23. See “Common Questions” for other attic notes at the back of this manual.