The PCS1 is maintenance free and requires only occasional inspection to
ensure everything is working properly. Here are some suggestions:
1. Inspect the PCS1 coil annually during spring startup or fall winterization for any
accumulation of dust or debris from attic environment. Vacuum any accumulated dust off of the
coil fins. This is not normally a problem.
2. Any time service is performed inside the PCS1, disconnect power first.
3. Any time the front grille or a side panel is off the PCS1, inspect to ensure proper
operation of the float. This is indicated by the float being free to move. If the float switch was
defective [open], the automatic mode of the LX220 would not work. Also, the “solar sensor
service reqd” light on the LX220 control panel will be on. No debris or obstruction of the float
should be present during this examination.
4. Do not lubricate the motor.
5. During startup, listen to the fan and motor. There should be mostly airflow noise
associated with the fan. No bearing noise should be apparent. If so, the motor may need to be
6. Some evidence of a small amount of condensate will be present in the form of a water
stain in the interior of the PCS1 base pan. This is normal.
7. CAUTION: When working on the PCS1 where the inlet and/or outlet union(s) will be
disconnected, ensure that (A) the bypass valve is in the “OFF” position bypassing the PCS1; (B)
the controller is “OFF”; (C) the plug to the bypass valve operator is removed [or the ON1, OFF &
ON2 switch is in the OFF position on newer systems]; and, (D) the manual handle for the bypass
valve is removed. These precautions will prevent the pool water from accidentally being routed up
to the attic during service. When reconnecting the plug to the VOR, ensure it shows “Pool” up the
same as it was when it was removed [SPA up if the valve was reverse staged]. A reversed staged
valve has inlet and outlets reversed. OR, on newer systems, ensure that the VOR is returned to the
same ON1 or ON2 position it was in before you turned it to the OFF position.
1. Make a visual check of the plumbing for any deterioration or problems.
Visually inspect the fan blade for position on the motor.
The fan should be 100% on
the motor’s shaft. The fan’s hub should not protrude past the end of the motor’s shaft.
3. Check the PVC unions on the PCS1 inlet and outlet. They should be tight. Do not over
tighten as they could crack.
4. Perform other pool startup chores.
5. Restart system and inspect attic for any sign of plumbing leaks.
6. System is ready to use for the season.
Winterize pool with air as you normally would.
Make sure that power is off and the
2. Blow air through the PCS1 pipes until all water is removed.
3. Perform all other winterization chores.
Make sure all pipes by support system are drained completely or they will freeze and
bust. Any suspect pipes having “trapped” water should have a hole drilled and a plug installed for
Remove the PCS1’s outlet union [at bottom of coil].
Tilt the opposite side up two
inches and drain any coil water into a pan. Next, tilt the inlet/outlet side up two inches followed by
a
second
tilt of the opposite side for draining any additional coil water into the pan.
process until no water drains from the PCS1.
antifreeze into the bottom of the PCS1.
Note: This dilutes any residual “trapped” water
still remaining within the coil and insures no freeze damage.
This is the same type of antifreeze
used in the pool’s pump and skimmers during the winterization process!
7. Reinstall the outlet union.
8. The PCS1 is winterized.
Failure to follow Step #6 above
can
lead to water coil damage!
Even after Steps #1-5, the PCS1
water coil could still
retain a small amount of residual water that is “trapped” within the bottom of
The non-toxic “RV” antifreeze [available at local hardware stores] dilutes
any residual
water and prevents winter freeze damage.